(originally posted here∞)

If you need to double-clutch, your syncros are too worn, period. My car has a gazillion miles on it, but luckily only the 1st gear syncro has real issues. When starting from a standstill I use 3rd gear to spin up the intermediate shaft before shifting into first -- helps the spline teeth grab quicker and with less wear, but not necessary unless you feel it refusing to slip in easily. All shifts should be possible with the pressure of one finger, if I haven't mentioned so. When you find the right timing that creates this ability, you'll find it actually faster than tugging on the stick, barring the utter brute force of a drag race.

I've never needed to do a handbrake start, even driving east from the Seattle waterline (SF-style hill if you've never been there). You simply use the same foot technique as if you were doing a heel-and-toe downshift around a corner. Google that term if you like, but the gist is to use your heel to blip the throttle while still applying brake pressure.

Go to any website with car geeks and you'll find long debates about downshifting. Quick answers: (against) Brake pads are cheaper than clutch disks. (for) Staying in gear, especially in the torque band of your engine, is safer. (for) Once you can successfully rev match, there's no wear anyway. (against) If you have strong engine braking (like my diesel does, being high-compression), slowing down without accompanying brake lights can be dangerous.

Edit: Lear is weird. The only good reason to get an automatic is if (1) it's a genuine CVT or electronic clutch, not a "TipTronic", or (2) you need to drink a latte AND talk on a cell phone at the same time. Needless to say, the latter person is better off taking the bus, for my insurance rate's sake.

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Ooh, neglected to mention the other eternal debate. Should one keep the car in gear when stopped? (pro) You can move at a moment's notice, with possible safety ramifications both ways. (against) Keeping the clutch disengaged puts wear on the throwout bearing. Aren't most cars designed to handle that stress? Most probably are...about all you can keep in mind is that the more engine torque, the more disc pressure required, thus the higher spring load to remove it. Considering it's not really necessary to induce that load, there's no reason to find out the hard way that your bearing can't take 100k miles of consistent depression -- the part itself is cheap but requires almost as much labor to get to as a complete clutch swap does.

My takes on the 2 issues: I downshift, but I'm good at it. I will put it in neutral if it's a long light, but will spin up the tranny as noted in the first post before moving again.

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One more tidbit. I made a comment earlier on being able to shift with a light touch. To feel what I'm talking about, try this: get up to 10mph, put it in neutral, then press very slightly toward 1st as you slow down. At some point before you stop it should slip into place effortlessly. That's how all shifting should feel, ideally.

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